Imhotep's Lab Interactive FAQ

Hello Imhotep,

Thank you once again ... this is absolutely Fanominal ( oh the cheesiness puns) .. as per my email, here is the schematic i am working with and i have written the concerns and issues here - i will be making a video tonight and post it to youtube showing how it is soldered and maybe we can see why it is not working (probably the components and/or stator wire connection).

The parts i am currently using are as follows:
Transistor 2N3055 SI 7amps 60v
Diodes 1N4007
POT 1/2 Watt c/w 1Amp Switch 5Kohm Linear
Neon 120VAC

Thanks again Imhotep ... your help is very much appreciated

Hi Derrick,

Looks good mate. Unsure if you are actually asking the questions listed on the attachment?

The 1n914 works fine, for that matter the 1n4007 will WORK too. You can play around with these, but I dont think you will see alot of difference. The original diode 1n4001 is nothing special.

2n3055 works great, can use mj3055 or bigger HV npns. Not really necessary unless its a multifilar/multicoil.

Let us know how you go.

hi ren,
my pc graphics card blew on me - using phone htc 6800 - awsome -
congrats on the mod ranking
I guess I should be specific - I am using 9v batteries - the 2n3055 transistor im using is only a 7amp 60v, whereas imhoteps video showed 15amp 100v - I was wondering if that would make the difference?
Sincerely,
D

Derrick the transistor need only be rated for input voltage. 2n3055 is fine.

Your resistance is most likely too high (5k??? way to high). You need a low resistance when first starting till you have it running. It is essential that there is a fixed resistor in series with the pot, at least 50 -100 ohms. More when you have it dialed. This stops you popping your trannie if resistance is dropped to nothing via the pot.

Check that your coils have correct polarity and that they have clean ends. Send us some pics if you keep getting stuck

Bad luck bout the computer. I had similar problems, brought a Mac, no problems now.

Hi Ren and Imhotep,

Thanks again - Forgive my 'broken-record' replies - I am starting over - here is the schematic i am going to use as it is Imhoteps circuit - please look at it carefully - i have simplified my questions and i am literally going to build the circuit as this schematic is drawn - in other words - my wires will be soldered exactly like the picture in the schematic - i would like to keep things clear before building it and ensure that i am using a working schematic and component/values.

Regarding the actual PC fan coils and polarity:

2 poles coil wire ends are wrapped on the outside (they are labelled (-) PC and (+) TC) - they are not connected (not the same wire) - refer to schematic.
The other 2 Poles coil wires ends are ((+) PC and (-) TC) - they are not connected (not the same wire).

The -PC {Wire End Wrapped on Outside of Coil} and -TC {Wire End Wrapped on inside of Coil} - they are connected to each other (one wire)

The +TC {Wire End Wrapped on Outside of Coil} and +PC {Wire End Wrapped on inside of Coil} - they are connected to each other (one wire)

Note:
Using a 9 volt battery:
I connect the positive lead to the -PC [CW] and the negative lead to the -TC [CCW] and then do the same for (+TC [CW] and +PC [CCW]) - the compass needle points north on all poles - so i do believe that means that each pole is actually a south polarity - correct? - i know that this is not the way it will be hooked to the circuit but i wanted to keep it simple regarding the polarity of the wraps.

Continuity for each coil reads at 20.5 - and thats direct connection with the coils (i currently have a laptop fan that i will be assembling tonight - see if i can get a better Continuity) - i cant get a clear enough picture of my coils and current circuit (very small and pixelated) with my phone cam - I will make this one big enough to see the setup for review - and who knows - maybe it will work with the laptop fan (12v .15 amps).

Thanks again gang ... again, my apologize for the hassles and please let me know if there are any corrections - especially before i begin - lol.

Sincerely,
D

ok Derrick.

Imhotep may be able to offer you some better suggestions regarding the original coils, I have only built one fan and I rewound the coils. If I understand you correctly 180 degree opposite coils are linked together? So that if you apply power to one winding only those two poles are energized? Or are all four poles energized? Yes the compass is indicating that the polarity of the coils in that configuration is south. To change this simply swap the ends to the opposite terminals of your source.

There are probably a few different ways to get this to work, Id suggest letting Imhotep step in here, Im interested to see what he has to say about the original winding configuration. On mine I wound each coil that was 180 degrees apart in series with its opposite. One set is the trigger the other is the power. There are better ways to do this, I think a project fan is on the horizon, one with multi filars

Yes you do need a fixed resistor off one of the legs of that pot. I mention why in my previous post.

Hi Ren,

My apologize for the miscommunication before - and thank you.

As for the coils - yes - 2 poles/coils at 180 degrees opposite to each other are one wire. The ring magnet on the rotor has 4 poles and 4 equators - it would appear that the true North polarties are stronger and the true south polarities are extremely weak - it took a long time for compass to even read it.

here is a poor quality shot of the coil -

LOL - when i get this figured out i will join you -

Once again Ren - You rock man!!!


Thanks again Mate!

As far as the coils, the magnetic structure more than likely matches the geometry of the coils. The original circuit board that you took off did it have 3 posts or 4? and if it had 3 post arrangement was 2 of the wires hooked together commonly and the other 2 separately?

I do suggest before moving forward reading throught this thread here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2003-free-energy-last-step-step-must-see.html I believe there were several people who had fan arrangements the match what you are describing and they did get their working. I cannot remember the exact page, but there is a lot of great information there that I think will help you alot. Read from beginning to end. It even included some test procedures for some of the components.

as far as using the 914 as a recovery diode (D2)I do not suggest that. The spikes are real high and I have shorted some 914's out. There are not beefy enough to handle the spikes. But Some people might have gotten them to work but all of my coils on the dozen or so that I have converted had extremely nice coils and big spikes that were just too much for that specific diode. That is a high speed, small signal diode and as Ren has stated in most situations that will work for the emitter-base diode,(D1) if yours shorts out, or the fan stops running after you get it working check that diode first and make sure its not shorted.

If you still have issues after going through the entire thread at energetics post yoiur specific questions and i will research and try to find answers for you. HTH

hi imhotep,

thank you for clearing this up for me.
there were 3 posts and the 2 outside wire ends were attached to the same post.

I have been changing components so much I confused myself regarding the geometry -

I originally had 6a10 diodes - the component store guru told me it was the ecg125 equivalent - big meaty things - lol

also, I noted that most schemas out there have a resistor between the pot and the base - your schema does not - is this correct?

I seen your suggested fan topic - I will get one from circuit source - or whatever they call radio shack now - I miss the old days - I will buy that one.

again, thank you so much imhotep

I will post my results once I get the new fan - and see what I can learn on the url above.

you all rock -
ciao for now

Rens suggestion of a resister in series is a good one, In Ricks Friedricks circuit he also had one. I used a current limiting adjustable power supply and never took the potentiometers to very low ohmage very long, So I never burned out any transistors. But while experimenting with these its good to have a resister in series. Some people just put a fixed resister when they found what worked for them (measuring the potentiometers resistance when they got the best spikes in the neon or on an oscilloscope) But I left the pots in because if I charged different size batteries I adjust them as I watch the voltage climb and adjust them to give me the quickest charge.

The fan that I recommended is an excellent one and great for beginners because it is so large and easy to work with and gives great spikes. Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress.