Imhotep's Lab Interactive FAQ

sorry that question was for Ren

Hi Mr Brown.

I do see some trends in your data. The lower the ohms, the better your charge is. Also, as you approach your C20 rate your charge gets better. Its important to note that pushing a little more current CAN charge better, well it makes the multimeter rise quicker, but isnt necessarily the best charge over time. You can use higher ohm coils, just make sure they have plenty of turns. This will result in lower amp draw, and you can use a smaller battery on the front end.

I used 7 filar (septfilar) coils on my window motor, but that is a different beast to tame altogether. The circuit is different, triggers at a different point and doesnt produce that radiant spike like the SG circuit does. Its purpose is elsewhere. Still, you get great results paralleling power wires

Excellent points my friends!

I have probably uncovered a new way or what JB is using for the R-Charge system,
I am radiant charging over trickle charge... I have a small auto charger diode-ed
in parallel with the 2 coil 24V IRO. It will charge to a higher level but when it hits
a certain level, it shuts off. It was hitting a level around 12.2 then I would remove
the positive for a few seconds (2-3) and the unit pushes more voltage thru the batt.
and if it takes it, initiates another charge cycle. I think it said 3 amps max, so that
is around C20 charge rate and I am still pushing radiant as well. I used diodes on
both the pos. and neg. just to be safe and there seems to be ZERO interaction
between the IRO and the conventional charger. Voila, today, I was at 12.89 V on the
charge batt. and it started at 12.90 so I hit it again, trying for 13.0 now. I need to build
a solid state IRO and multi-filar windings would really rock I think! I am planning on
LITZ Wire, it is relatively cheap on Ebay. I also found some from the suppliers online.

Comments Ren and Mbrownn? is Litz a good idea?

Litz wire can offer some advantages. It is not necessary however. Mind you, if you are doing multifilars it can make things alot easier when winding.

Solidstate is good. You can build the Bedini circuit slightly different and it will self oscillate. Or you can just jack up resistance on the base of the transistor. Usually in the 2k plus range and it will self oscillate.

You will get higher rate of oscillations with air cores, or you could wind an iron wire within your multifilars. I have yet to try this, but it has been suggested by John himself as one way you can lower the oscillation speed. The iron or steel wire must not retain magnetism and should be insulated.

You can also try a single recovery winding which goes to bridge rectifier, and then straight to charging battery. In this config you have your SG circuit with "x" amount of power windings and a separate length which is your recovery winding. It is inductively coupled and will pick up your spikes for you, while not being directly connected to the power windings. In this case you dont need diodes off the collector/s. And dont use a neon. Just make sure your battery is ALWAYS connected. Either that or put a cap on the bridge. Which leads you to learn and discover the capacitive discharge configuration...... so many circuits to learn and build.

What do you think of radiant charging over trickle charge Ren?

Thx for your other comments, I will take it into consideration.

IMO the idea has merit. In some ways I think it is similar to running the unit (oscillator) from a power supply, where the input voltage is slightly higher than the battery being charged.

Like 14v input charging 12v battery.

You would have to do extended tests to see if there is any disadvantage to charging like this. It is suggested that radiant batteries can be harder to charge with a trickle charger after they have been radiantly charged, this could be a way in which one gets the best of both worlds.

Keep records of tests done and see where it takes you.

Regards

Right now, I am at 13 volts and still running an IRO full time, and cycling the
trickle about once a day. It hits FULL (the sensing circuit bumps the test voltage
up about 1/2 a volt above "ambient" and sees if current flows I guess) and then
if you get current flow, it initiates a charge cycle. It is a DeWalt universal drill battery charger.
It senses the battery voltage and charges until full, so I have to "reset" it after each cycle.