mbrownn wrote:
Wow that was an interesting experiment.
When I first started the test I got a rapid increase in volts, it then leveled off and started to drop slowly. After 1 hour I tweaked the pot for the sweet spot and the voltage began to rise slowly.
I am using my Bedini fan with an ignition coil in parallel; once it starts to resonate I remove the fan blades and magnets and leave it resonating.
My input current to the device is 0.54 amps the reading between the device and the charging battery is 0.09 amps so I thought I was a long way from a COP of 1 but this test shows that I am closer than I thought.
My fan will not rotate in this setup. I get a lot of heat in the fan coils and a slight increase in the ignition coil. There is some magnetic energy coming from both coils which I may be able to collect in some way and feed back to the circuit.
The primary use of my motor design will be to give me an alternative power supply for the house, getting off the grid would be better. Normal generators have some efficiency problems as you point out so Im looking at some alternative ideas for that.
Machine shops aren’t a problem, balancing is, but im sure ill be able to make something with a strobe when the time comes for that.
Again thanks for some great input
Mick
Good stuff. The test will depend alot on the condition of the batteries used. With two new batteries on my acrylic wheel monopole with dual coils I get a slow voltage drop (say 24.50 down to 24.40) until the wheel reaches its top speed/resonance. From here it jumps back to its starting voltage and slowly climbs. I have had it climb slowly but steadily for over 9 hours @ c25 rates, finishing up @ 0.45 higher than the starting voltage. With a bad battery on the backend I can make it shoot up instantly over 2 volts sometimes, so you can see that this isnt always an accurate test if batteries arent equal. By the way that is with a new 1.3 amp hour battery charging a 20amp hour (damaged). So you have to be careful/scientific regarding this particular test.
By the way, you want the least amount of amperage showing going to the charging battery. One of my better replications uses 1000ma on the front end and less than 120ma of that makes it to the charging battery, or so my analogue meters tell me. Like Ive mentioned before, you just cant be too certain in these circumstances, especially with pulsed DC.
You will find an easy way to measure peak voltage is with a very small uF cap (HV of course) these will charge up very quickly. You can get some great 3.3uF HV caps from inside the light bulbs Imhotep has shown us how to modify (CFL). Careful when measuring/shorting, they are tiny but can still give you a good zap!