Imhotep's Lab Interactive FAQ

Hi!, all my respect and thanks for all users here, especially to Imhotep of course!!! a Freedom Warrior for me!!!

I am a newbie and I have built a Imhotep Bedini fan with cap and SCR. For charging aaa, aa and 9v bateries they charge very well , faster then the conventionally charger (after a few charging and discharging cicles of course). Anyway I don't understand what I obtain with the SCR, I just replicated from bedini scheme hahaha, so:

1) can anybody explain me the SCR benefit?, is the same if I remove it?

this is my circuit:

http://www.myupload.dk/showfile/3392963ee3d.JPG/


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Somedays ago I bougth an ebike with three 12v 12ah bateries each one, so now the single imhotep Bedini fan is not enough... I was thinking in parallel output or in this Imhotep post which data one year ago aprox about an ac fan full size:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable ... #post34485

2)anyone know anything about this ac fan full size? (I have a few ones from waste)

any observation will be appreciated, Thanks in advance!


edit: link fixed.

link to Imhotep post:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable ... #post34485

I'm not a Bedini Fan experimenter (yet?) but I do have experience with the SCR on my IRO (radiant oscillator)
It seems the pulses of a Bedini coil arrangement and the IRO both produce a conventional (electron)
current that is somewhat AC in waveform. (having positive and negative phases) in addition to the radiant flow that is initiated during the sharp "off" phase.
The SCR or FWBR (made up of diodes which are similar to a "fixed operation" SCR, both are "rectifiers")
this FWBR rectifies all of the conventional current component to make that portion of the signal stronger,
instead of having a partial discharging signal with the conventional current component.

In simpler terms, it raises the output "voltage" and efficiency of these devices.
My IRO went from ~50VDC to ~70VDC with a FWBR on it!
That was not the "spike" voltage, those were much higher.
Average output was raised some 40%.

I'd leave the SCR in there, in this case you would likely have to jumper it out and maybe do something for the trigger wire too. I suspect it is there for higher output. I'm having trouble viewing your drawing, but I'd say it (SCR) is needed.

Thanks so much, very clear explanation!!
when I put the SCR noticed great improvement, so I will not remove it, the question was just for understanding, and you did it so well.

Next I will raise the output maybe with parallel multiple fans or a biggest one, or an AC fan. What you recomment?, in the while I know, I have to read more and more!

Hi,

you can think of the scr as a low voltage drop triggered diode. In this instance the scr is used to add a second set of impulses that are apart from the primary pulses. Essentially it allows the capacitor time to charge up from the inductive discharges in the primary circuit/coil and then discharges the accumulated energy stored in the capacitor into the charging battery.

Depending on how you configure it's triggering and the size of capacitor used will determine what voltage it dumps at. The scr is great for a low capacitance cap but when you start using larger ones you will need to use a heavy duty transistor or MOSFET or mech commutator. So the scr is really not that different in function to the transistor used in the main circuit. Infact, I've used this circuit to pulse another coil, on it's way to charging another battery. So the main coil is pulsed, it's inductive discharge is rectifed and stored in the capacitor which is inturn discharged through another coil (who's inductive discharge could also be harvested).

The whole point is if the capacitor is shorted directly to the load, being the charging battery here, the capacitor cannot build up a significant charge over the voltage of the battery. If this is the case then the cap is doing nothing. The scr or switch allows for charge to build before it is abruptly discharged into the charging battery/load. You can always tell if your cap pulser is working well by measuring the voltage on the cap, it should be above the voltage of the battery, usually at least 1 volt more. If the cap reads the same as the battery, you have no pulsing happening in the discharge circuit.

In regards to more output, people, MULTIFILAR multi circuits! Parallel windings lower the impedance. The spikes strength is directly related to the current present in the coil on switch open.

If people are interested in multiple circuits on the one device then perhaps we can start another thread to address this.

Regards

Thanks Ren! very informative, I am focus in your steps that sure I will follow.

Regarding to the Ac fan (iron rotor) this morning I disassemble one and get this unknow circuit:

http://www.myupload.dk/showfile/34085009eb0.JPG/


http://www.myupload.dk/showfile/3408554ad4b.JPG/

Asking myself who are the in and the outs?. Guessing every set must have 1 in and 1 out.
any clue?

Thinking in no BEMF, like a rotary attraction motor, maybe no exactly but...
Anything will be helpful. Thanks in advance.

You will find that the AC squirrel cage motors are unsuitable for a Bedini style energizer. Serious modifications are needed. The first being that they need magnets on the rotor, not to easily done considering the air gap.

Secondly, the enclosing steel laminates trap magnetic flux inside the unit, which isnt ideal. There is a reason Bedinis coils arent encased in steel.

Thirdly, you seem to have found already. The windings are configured for AC power, you will either have to match phases correctly to the (non existent) magnets on the rotor or rewire the thing. Not even worth it in my opinion.

I have built all my Bedini motors from scratch, wound my own coils, and built my own circuits and rotors. The modification of fans are a great starting point and really practical as far as availability and ease of completion of a precision unit. Imhotep has even shown that there need not be any rewinding of the coils (which I did with my fan unit, its a real pain) making it almost as easy as plug and play.

But there are things you just cant do with them, and you wont learn everything you need to know to advance forward in your knowledge. I would encourage everyone to build a unit from scratch, preferably multifilar if they are up to it. There is just so much more to grasp.

Regards

Thanks very much, I appreciated your answer.

actually I was thinking not in John motors but Peter Lindemann "rotary attraction motor" (like I said above):

http://www.free-energy.ws/electric-moto ... motor.html

anyway I am just a newbie in learning process, maybe this conversion can't be done...

I can't buy a coil in my city (I tried but don't even exist!!) for build a monopole...

Ren's specific reply is much better in this case, I was giving a general response.
Thanks Ren!

I havent studied Dr Lindemanns motor closely (or more correctly his techniques) but I would guess it would be do-able. But far from ideal once again.

Jetijs has an excellent circuit for this style of motor. Its an optically triggered one, firing HV parallel mosfets using mosfet drivers to maximise rise and fall times of the particular fets involved. Various methods have be used to recover energy and protect the mosfets as well.

If you are going to go down this path I suggest you get some circuitry experience under your belt. A knowledge of sensors (hall effect, optical interruptors/isolators etc) and how they can be used to trigger a mosfet is a good start. You could build a window motor like the one I built in my avatar (doesnt have to be that big) to get a handle on using hall sensors to trigger transistors at the appropriate time.

An oscilliscope will be needed as well.

You say you cant buy a coil in your city? If you have a postal address you can order everything you could ever need. I built my first coil from iron tie wire from the hardware store and copper salvaged from a MOT (microwave oven transformer x 2). Actually, I had the iron tie wire already, and the PVC pipe I used for the coil former. So infact my first coil cost me nothing.

If you cant be bothered you can buy prebuilt coils or full kits from Rick F, who works directly with John Bedini. He posts worldwide, and his prices are excellent because he buys in bulk.

Unless you live up in the highlands of Tibet or atop of Everest there should be no problem sourcing copper magnet wire, and an appropriate core. The mere fact that you are able to reply to these forums would suggest you have access to the internet, and quite frankly, thats all you need.

Regards